What Not To Do When Coloring Hair Extensions

hair extension academy hair extensions artist Dec 13, 2023
Different methods of hair extensions

When it comes to color hair extensions - there a few steps you DO NOT want to skip when it comes to coloring hair extensions.

First things first - NO permanent color 

Why is that?

Permanent color uses alkalinity to compromise the cuticle and deposit color molecules into the cortex.  

Another way to think of this is:  The cuticle is a barrier, sort of like a door that you have to get through to deposit color.

Permanent color (10, 20, 30, 40 volume) is like using a battering ram; while a toner (7 volume or less) or an acidic based color/ direct dye just has a little push.

The majority of hair extensions have already had the cuticle disturbed, or in many cases removed and replaced with silicone.  Hair that is compromised already will be severely damaged by reopening the cuticle.  If the cuticle has been replaced with silicone a permanent color will dissolve the silicone and the extensions will be ruined.  

TIP #1: Don’t try to be a mad scientist!   Always read and follow both the hair extensions and color line’s manufacturer’s directions.  

TIP #2: ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS do a strand test checking elasticity before and after.  If the hair loses elasticity do not proceed, go gentler and do another strand test.

TIP #3: NEVER color the extensions dry. You want t be sure that the hair extensions are always damp, this can help prevent blotchiness

TIP #4: Make sure the hair extensions are FULLY saturated. If the extensions are not saturated they will come out blotchy.

Coloring extensions will take time, and attention to detail! You can't just apply the color and hope for tthe best - you need to have a strategy when applying color to extensions!